Category: Equipment


How to pack your scuba kit bag

How do I put all this scuba kit into my gear into my kit bag?

There are many ways you can pack your kit bag with all your gear and it depends upon whom owns the equipment, whether or not you take all the equipment, distance to carry the gear, where you will be kitting up.

For diving with us and using our shop gear we would recommend packing your kit in the following manner ;

  • Fins in first – Place your scuba fins at the bottom of your kit bag. We place fins at the bottom of the kit bag fro two reasons
    1. Fins are the things you will need last
    2. Fins are cheap, plastic and durable. Therefore fins can protect the rest of your scuba kit from damage through transportation to and from the dive site.
  • After checking your scuba regulator thoroughly make a loop with the hoses and place inside of your BCD in the middle, then fold the BCD sides around it for padding & protection
  • Having size checked & adjusted your mask attach your snorkel to the left hand side then place inside a folded or rolled wetsuit and place this also inside your BCD on top of your regulator set.
  • Place BCD inside of your kit bag, right on top of your fins.
  • Zip her up your good to go diving.


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Washing a Scuba Regulator after use

How To Wash Scuba Regulators After Use

Why Wash Scuba Regulators After Use?

It is very important to wash scuba regulators thoroughly after use, to help preserve its general condition, help to avoid unnecessary or early servicing and lastly for good hygiene practices by preventing dirty smelly regulators being used or from colds / infections being passed form diver to diver

Once a regulator has been immersed into water and/or breathed from by a diver then it will require washing after disassembly as salt water is extremely corrosive to all metals and could corrode the first stage housing or moving parts. not only this but the diver my deposit saliva or other matter within the second stage that is far from pleasant to encounter a few days later

We will be showing you how to rinse the scuba regulator first stage and flush out the regulator second stages after use.

Check and Double Check First Stage Dust Cap
scuba regulator first stage dust cap scubapro

scuba regulator first stage dust cap aqualungBefore you immerse the scuba regulator in your wash tank double check that the if the first stage uses a dust cap that it is located and secured properly by tightening the thumbscrew on the regulator yoke. Please bear in mind its name is “Dust Cap” : – Is designed to prevent dust and sand and dirt from clogging the first stage. A Dust Cap is not a water cap and therefore is not
designed to keep water out of the first stage when it is not attached to a tank,

so be careful to
understand whether or not your dust cap is suitable to prevent water from entering the first stage chamber if you immerse it fully into water. Generally they do not. So with that in mind we do not recommend immersing either our Aqualung or ScubaPro first stages into the water for rinsing purposes.

Rinse Regulator First Stage

Approach wash tank and carefully lower first stage close to water held in such a way thet the thumbscrew of first stage is pointing downward toward the water, then pour water over the first stage to flush out the salt/chlorine form this unit. Once you have done this a few times pull the first stage out and shake excessive water off.

Rinse Regulator Second Stages

Take the second stage and immerse it in fresh water and waft it fairly vigorously through the water. Do Not press the regulator purge button when the regulator is immersed without being attached to a scuba tank or else water will enter and stagnate within the second stages low pressure hose leading to unpleasant smells and tastes as well as accelerating the degradation of the hose itself. If you have pipe cleners or toothbrushes then use these to clean the mouth pies both where the diver bites upon i but also inside the exhausts and inlet to rmove any debris within, in the abscence of tools use fingers and rub thoroughly. Dont forget that there are 2 second stages, the black and yellow one too, they will both need rinsing in this manner.

Rinse Submersible Pressure Gauge

Simply immerse the SPG in water and gently swill it around and then rotate the spg on it hose whilst immersed in fresh water to clean the joints

Rinse Low Pressure Inflater hose

Immerse and gently swill around and then pull the bayonet fixing back and forth a few times in water to clean the ball bearings contained within the collar.

Hang to dry

Once all parts of the scuba regulator have been rinsed off with fresh water, carefully shake out the water within the second stages and first stage before hanging to dry on a tank rack or other suitable location.


VIDEO – How To Wash Scuba Regulators by PADI Instructor Hana Cho

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scubapro technician certificate

SCUBAPRO Technician level 1

SCUBAPRO Technician Level 1

I am pleased to announce that I completed the 2 day SCUBAPRO Technician level 1 course.

The training and certification not only means that I may now maintain and service our 20 x new SCUBAPRO T-ONE BCDs and our MKII regulators which I purchased for Asia Divers divers December 2016. But also ensures that Asia Divers maintains its high standard of equipment condition with scheduled maintenance, rather than repair when broken.

The course was hosted at welcoming Crystal Divers Koh Tao and was organised through SCUBAPRO service.


T-One BCDSCUBAPRO T-One maintenance

We looked at BCD inflater’s – servicing cleaning and repair, after which we went through quick-dumps and general maintenance of the SCUBAPRO T-One BCD of which Asiscubapro bcd inflatora Divers now possess about 40 units replacing the older Aqualung BCDs that we once favoured.



scubapro r195 mk11MKII & R195 Servicing

We thoroughly went through annual disassembly… testing and service kit replacements for both the first stage the trusty MKII and the new second stage the R195.



I can highly recommend taking the course if your interested in equipment maintenance for dive centres. However for servicing personal dive equipment which may have balanced regulators you will want to take the level 2 technicians course.

If your interested in joining the next scubapro technicians course contact us for details







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How to wash BCD

Rinsing your buoyancy control device after use

Keeping your scuba gear in good working order is essential for dive safety, comfort and maintaining its appearance and longevity.

One way to prevent early servicing or expensive repair is too look after your BCD by washing it drying it properly after every use.

I have seen many different levels of care given to rental and personal equipment after use.

The lazy diver scuba kit wash

Lazy divers idea of washing their scuba gear, is to lift their complete kit bag with fins, booties, mask, wet-suit, regulator and BCD as well as ancillary stuff like slates and pointers contained within the bag still zipped up and dunk as one into the wash bucket and possible soak for a full 10 seconds before lifting out once more proclaiming “Done!”

OTT Diver

OTT Divers think of themselves as scuba technicians in many ways often without actually having attended any manufactures technician courses. They will carefully unpack their bag and then completely disassemble their framed scuba mask, as well disassembling their BCD by removing all hoses and dumps then flushing all kit with ionised water repeatedly for most of the afternoon before reassembly with silicon grease at hand and used liberally.

Sensible Diver

Best way to wash out a BCD after use. Is to immerse the BCD in clean fresh water, and slush it around to remove any minerals or salts form the outside of the bladder. Whilst under running water flush out all quick dumps and repeatedly press all buttons to clean under and within the button housing. If the BCD has any zips pull the runner along the zip a few times to clean them of any mineral deposits. Now pour some fresh water into the BCD by operating the deflate valve. Swish the water throughout the BCD by rotating the bcd and turning upside down to and fro. When you want to release the wter from BCD do so using either quick dumps or if you have the scubapro brand the deflate toggle at the shoulder dump where the inflater hose is attached to there you will find a small lever to open the valve.

Watch our video of how to wash your BCD after use

Instructor Hana, shows us how to wash a BCD properly after use.

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Northern Diver Guardian BCD review

Northern Diver Guardian BCD reviewNorthern Diver Guardian GTek BCD

I was first introduced to the Northern Diver Guardian BCD range with my first model the Guardian GTEK model. A close friend brought one to Thailand from his trip to England. I had never heard of Northern Diver before hand, and was keen to test out what appeared to be a well reviewed BCD.

I soon fell in love with the Northern Diver Guardian BCD. Despite it being a little bit too large for me you could adust the cumberband both at the frnt and rear on the back plate, to bring in to fit my small frame.

Fabric quality

The quality of the fabric is what impressed me the most.

The Northern Diver Guardian BCD is very hardy and thick denier material. I just can not imagine this wering a hole in it. I must confess to puncturing it once with a stray dive knife in my kit bag. After a puncture repair using AquaSeal, I continuedto use the Northern Diver Guardian BCD for about 4 years daily, with very little maintenance or frankly even washing it properly after diving, it would sometimes go months between seeing fresh water for a rinse!


I really liked the inflator also came with a integrated quacker or scubalert, very useful in my line of work as it comes with an integrates scubalert or quacker as they are sometimes called. I found this feature particulalry useful for alerting my charges to something important quickly.

It also had numerous metal D-Rings and a buddy line carabeaner built in already!

A very comfortable durable BCD Highly reccommend it.


Very buoyant! Again useful in my line of work. On occasion particularly during rescue diver courses I am often holding 3 or 4 divers weights at the surface as the de-kit rescuing.

Integrated weight system

I lost one pocket fairly quickly. This seems comon to all integrated weight systems. My fault entirely as I had neglected to secure the quick release buckle properly. Due to design when swimming in horizontal position they can easily fall out if this is the case.




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Cree 4800ml Dive flashlight review

Cree 4800Lm dive flashlight review


Purchased December 2014

Died March 2016

Estimated number of dives 50

[list type=”list-style2″]

  • Cheap
  • Heavy
  • Awkward



I bought the

Cree 4800Lm dive flashlight XM-L2  online through ebay, looking for a cheaper alternative to flashlights available on Koh Tao

First the Cree 4800Lm dive flashlight is quite  heavy. I found the handle grip slightly uncomfortable it was quite thin not moulded although it had a plastic cover for grip but because there was no where else to attach one, the shape of the handle enabled me to attach a lanyard and caribeaner. One it came I was suspicous of the O-rings that came with Cree 4800Lm dive flashlight. They appeared to be too small for the flashlight body. In fact the O-Rings were stretching a great deal to be seated in their grooves. Not only this one of the O-rings looked already scored or damaged upon delivery.

When it first was tested. It went with my colleague Kevin. It came back flooded. This was due to USER ERROR (mine not Kevins) as the end cap of the battery compartment was not being screwed in properly. But after a rinse with deionized water a day of drying off the  Cree 4800Lm dive flashlight was back up and working the next day. Only fault was now the switch could no longer entirely switch off the LEDs. It would dim somewhat but not turn off entirely. So to overcome this at the end of the dive I would unscrew it slightly so that the contct was broken on the batterys.

I found the extremely bright light very useful. In fact I can honestly say I did not encounter a brighter dive flash light during ny night dives at one of the worlds busiest night dive spots. I liked the ability to dim the light as desired.

After another year of use and no great particular care given to it. The switch has no failed completely. It is a thumb sliding switch at the led end of the handle grip, it no longer moved and seemed jmmed n place. With some persuasion of washing liquid and lighty tapping eventually freed up but now it moves it no longer does anything.

Overall impression good light, solid consruction, dodgy orings, switch design suseptable to wear and tear.


[skills main_text=”Attributes” main_color=”#193340″ text_color=”#ffffff”]

[skill main_color=”#97BE0D” percentage=”95″] Light power [/skill]

[skill main_color=”#D84F5F” percentage=”90″] Battery life [/skill]

[skill main_color=”#88B8E6″ percentage=”80″] Usability [/skill]

[skill main_color=”#BEDBE9″ percentage=”53″] Build quality [/skill]

[skill main_color=”#EDEBEE” percentage=”45″] Durability [/skill]




6/10 But a very good short term soloution, not so good for a long term investment.

Remember buy cheap buy twice! As I have just done.

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Ikelite housing failure

Ikelite canon G12 housing cracked

Ikelite housing failure

I have been using this housing for about 18 months infrequently.

I was often suprised that you could notice the housing creaking when descending, but htought nothing of it.

A few days ago I noticed between dives that a crack had developed originating from one of the control dials specificallly the once used to change mode Manual, program, custom..etc It appead to go about an inch away from the dial. Now to my knowledge the camera has not been dropped by myself, or placed anywhere to fall, and I have not cleaned the housing with anything but fresh water and a clean cloth and so I suspect that it has just occured from pressure changes.

I removed the camera and took the housinfg for 2 test dives. The first of which showed no water leaking. The second of which with extensive button and dial usage did result in droplets inside the housing!

Has anyone else experienced an ikelite housing failure from pressure? I dont dive deep I think the maximum depth I went with this housing is about 25m

So it looks as if my pride and joy may well be dead.ikelite housing crack

I have throughly enjoyed my time with this, the addition of a ds-51 strobe was the best day of diving since the whale sighting. It took me many months of saving to get the housing and then the strobe. Frankly I am gutted, as it looks like it is dead Jim!

So I wrote to ikelite and am hoping for a reply soon, but I dont hold up any hope, as it is considered quite old now.

But for the moment alas no more photos from me, it looks as if  Thea’s photography dives were its last outing.

UPDATE 28/05/2016

Ikelite USA Have repaired the housing and its on its way back home!#

So it took 2 weeks to send to them, and due to “Shop machine failure” reapair took 6 weeks but the costs were reasonable.




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